This summer I had the pleasure of guiding a few long time guests in the South Tyrol region of Italy. I recently became an internationally certified (IFMGA) guide and this marked my first guided trip to Europe, where IFMGA certification is required. Hopefully this is the beginning of semi-regular trips to the Alps for custom trips throughout the year.
Believe it or not, there have only been about 200 certified American Mountain Guides since 1997, when the American Mountain Guides Association became accredited. Of the 187 current IFMGA guides listed on the AMGA's website only 2 are registered in the state of Montana, myself included. All of this is to say American guides don't often operate in regulated countries, including most of Europe, and that these credentials are critical for legal access and adequate insurance. Most guides will have some sort of patch on their shoulder for the company they're working with, but the IFMGA patch is required to guide in the Alps. It also shows that they have submitted themselves to peer examination and learned industry standards for risk management, professionalism, and client care.
Enough about guides, though- this trip was all time. The Dolomites really live up to all the hype with excellent food, inviting locals, affordable prices, beautiful mountains, and that sweet European access that allows for so much flexibility. I am never disappointed here!
Although my trip started with some missed connections and a late arrival in Munich, only half a day was lost. I still had plenty of time to adjust to the jetlag and spend a day and half previewing the terrain (and food).
With incoming weather in the afternoon and some last minute changes with the group, we opted for a shorter first day incorporating two separate via ferrata's and two lift bumps. This allowed for a more casual start and gave our youngest, an 8 year old, a chance to climb with the rest of us. We started on the short, but still challenging, Col Rodella Via Ferrata just a few minutes walk from the first lift and a few Rifugios. This served as a perfect intro to Via Ferratas and gave us some great views into the valley floor below.
By the time we topped out at the Rifugio Col Rodella, it was midday. We decided to forego a lunch here and carried onto the two person "gondola" up to Rifugio Toni Demetz situated high up in the Sassolungo group. This allowed two of our group to hang out at a rifugio for lunch while three of us tackled a larger via ferrata beside it. We left our packs at the hut and jogged down to the base of the climb, quickly ascending nearly 500m of cable above and beside the hut. Amazingly for a beautiful Saturday afternoon, we didn't run into any other parties. This via included some nice ridgelines and a small bridge, all while being able to wave to the rest of our group having lunch.
We reconvened at the hut, said our goodbyes, and split ways for the next two days with just the three of us taking off on an adventurous hike towards Rifugio Sandro Pertini. We followed climbers paths traversing the bases of the impressive Punta Grohmann and Sassopiatto before dropping down to our Rifugio for the evening, Sandro Pertini was a small, welcoming hut and we were surprised to find that the hut keeper was vegan, making meal accommodations very easy.
With poor weather forecasted in the afternoon of day 2, we woke up early and had a light breakfast before hiking the 4 miles back to Passo Sella. Instead of tackling the formidable Poessnecker via ferrata that morning, we played it safe and decided to hike up the beautiful Valon del Fos to make it to our hut before the impending thunderstorms. Again, we utilized climbers trails traversing the base of Piz Ciavazes and eventually ascending out of tree line, where we were greeted by great views and even a few alpine ibex. After many switchbacks and nearly 3000' of gain, we were happy to check into Rifugio Forcella Pordoi and dry ourselves out over warm drinks.
That afternoon, we rested well and enjoyed the luxury of a nearly empty hut. We had two short hikes in-between inclement weather to both Cima Forcia and Sass Pordoi, but never quite managed great views through the thick clouds. That evening we enjoyed a great menu for dinner- I can recommend the Speckknödel and Bombardino for cold, wet days!
The next morning, one of our group was feeling like a restful morning would be advantageous, so we split up and the other two of us descended from the Rifugio towards Via Ferrata Piazzetta. Given out hut location, this via would just take the morning and we were able to leave equipment at the hut, making our packs that much lighter. Ferrata Piazzetta is considered one of the most challenging via ferratas in the region and climbs a vertical wall to the summit of the tallest point in the Sella group, Piz Boè.
After a quick traverse under the hut, we were harnessing up at the base of the wall. Although challenging, this via ferrata presents it's crux in the first 60 meters with vertical climbing and no ladder rungs. We had no issues, however, and cruised up through all of the difficulties with an extra rope on just in case. Soon, we reached a beautiful bridge and a lot of moderate climbing before getting to hike the final few hundred feet to the top. After a few quick pictures, we ran down to our hut for a roughly 3 hour round trip.
We regrouped and re-packed at Pordoi before hiking 15 minutes to a nearby cable car that saved us 2500' of steep descent. This deposited us in the small village of Passo Pordoi, where we enjoyed a quick lunch while waiting for the rest of our group to bring us back to a total of 5.
From Passo Pordoi, we hiked a few gradually rising miles along a subalpine ridgeline separating the Sella group from Marmolada. While not as high as our last few days, I would argue that this was the most scenic part of our trek. At some point, we were even greeted by Ibex sprinting down the hillside at what must have been 40 mph. Soon we were relaxing in the luxury of private rooms and showers at the Rifugio Viel dal Pan, all while soaking up the view of Marmolada across the valley.
Our final day was a continuation of our ridge hike to the Ferrata Trinces, a historic ridgeline full of World War 1 relics. It began with a few miles of gradually rising trail across a surprisingly steep grassy slope, eventually leading to the top of a gondola dropping off the other side. Here, we made a group decision to have a shorter day to accommodate travel plans & rest, so we just tackled the first part of Trinces. The via ferrata starts with steep, smooth terrain and no ladder rungs, making for a particularly challenging initial 30 meters. From here, it continues on easier terrain, reaching a wonderfully exposed ridgeline with Piz Boe to the left and Marmolada to the right. After maybe 60 meters of ridgeline, we crossed a nice bridge and began a descent, where we regained the trail and looped back to the gondola.
The gondola took us back down the town of Arraba, where we caught a ride to Corvara. Here we enjoyed a splendid lunch and said our goodbyes, until the next time. I settled into the hotel room and only a few hours later, Carl arrived after driving from Venice that morning. We toured the town, enjoying some light Italian beer, pasta, and picking up some gifts for home.
Originally we'd planned on doing two days of rock climbing in the area, but the temptation of a long day clipped into the Via Ferrata cable was too strong, so we decided to run up Marmolada the next morning. The pivot was perfect given the weather and we put down the 1000 m cable in just a few hours with plenty of time to tour the plethora of WWI caves near the top of the route, bump up the cable car to the true summit, and enjoy a nice meal on top. Shortly after lunch, we were back at the car and considering afternoon cragging options. After realizing that the access lifts to a nearby crag was closed, we settled for a few afternoon pitches in Val di Fassa before settling into our Rifugio at the base of Marmolada. That evening we linked up with some of Carl's friends for a wonderful dinner near Cortina.
With tight flights and no margin for error, we woke up early the next morning with plans to be back at the car by noon. A classic multi-pitch, Roberta83, was calling our names on the South Face of Piz Ciavazes. Although a well bolted Dolomite classic, we found the route finding somewhat challenging and the climbing to be a bit exciting at moments. Nevertheless, we made good time through the crux 7a+ pitch before rappelling back down to the base, having not encountered any other parties. Back at the car, we realized it was only 11 and zoomed down to a nearby rifugio for a raddler, pannini, and strudle before our travels. As perfect as a half day in the Dolomites gets!
After our lunch break, we said our goodbyes until the next adventure! And just like that, a beautiful 10 days in the Dolomites came to a close. We had a few bouts of marginal weather, but the variety of terrain and infrastructure allowed us to enjoy the most of each day, all while avoiding the crowds. The food was top notch and affordable, and all the locals were extremely inviting and helpful at each hut. Overall, a highly recommended trip for any mountain enthusiast. The Dolomites cater to hikers, runners, bikers, flyers, climbers, and most other form of enjoying the alpine. I'm already looking forward to the next visit!
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